In Europe, it is estimated that each person consumes 25 kg of textiles per year and discards approximately 22 kg. Of this discarded amount, around 85-90% ends up in general waste, meaning it is either incinerated or sent to landfills. Why do we discard almost as much textile as we purchase? And why don’t we dispose of it correctly? What happens to the textile that is collected separately? And who is bearing the cost of this entire process?
As part of our interview series in collaboration with Girbau LAB, where we reflect on key aspects of circularity in the textile industry, we couldn’t miss a conversation with Pilar Chiva, Director of the Circular Economy Area at the Catalan Waste Agency. With her, we explored how textile waste is managed once discarded and what its handling entails from an economic, social, and environmental perspective.
– Pilar, should textiles be considered waste, like plastic or glass?
According to the EU Waste Framework Directive (Directive 2008/98/EC), waste is defined as “any substance or object which the holder discards, or intends or is required to discard.” Unfortunately, in Catalonia, we dispose of around 20 kg of textile waste per person per year. If we focus on clothing, it has been worn an average of only seven times before being discarded. Clearly, textiles are a form of waste that is generated in enormous quantities.
“In Catalonia, we dispose of around 20 kg of textile waste per person per year.”
– But given how little clothing is worn before disposal, calling it “waste” seems counterproductive.
Exactly. The challenge is to ensure that textiles do not become waste. And when this is unavoidable, their management must be as efficient as possible. Regarding your point, the EU Waste Directive allows certain types of waste to cease being classified as waste if they are properly processed through authorized facilities and can be reintroduced as marketable resources. This is known as the “End-of-Waste” status. We hope that the regulation defining this status for textiles will be approved soon because textile waste can often be transformed into a resource with minimal processing. This would help streamline many processes.
“The EU Waste Directive allows certain types of waste to cease being classified as such and be reintroduced as marketable resources, under the ‘End-of-Waste’ status.”
– How is textile waste currently managed?
Until now, it has been done entirely on a voluntary basis. In most European Union countries, including Spain, social enterprises—in collaboration with local governments—have installed containers in cities to collect textiles. However, since this is voluntary, only 13% of textile waste in Catalonia is collected separately. The rest is mixed with general waste and ends up in landfills or energy recovery facilities.
Starting in January 2025, due to the EU directive and Spain’s Waste and Contaminated Soil Law for a Circular Economy, all municipalities will be required to collect textile waste separately. Additionally, just as with packaging, electronics, and other waste types, companies that put textiles on the market will have to take financial and logistical responsibility for managing them. We expect this to significantly increase the amount of clothing collected separately.
“Only 13% of textile waste in Catalonia is collected separately. The rest ends up in landfills or energy recovery facilities.”
– How do we know that only 13% of textiles are collected separately?
Through a waste characterization study, known as the “sample bag” method. This involves taking a representative sample of municipal waste generated in Catalonia and manually examining its contents.
The last study, conducted in 2014, revealed that 4.11% of general waste consisted of textiles. Using this data—combined with official figures on separately collected textile waste—we can estimate the total textile waste generated and the percentage collected separately.
However, this data is somewhat outdated. The last waste characterization study was conducted ten years ago, and we believe the percentage may now be closer to 6% or even 8%. To confirm this, an updated study is necessary, and we are working to fund it.
– Regarding the cost of collection and management, will companies that put more clothing on the market have to pay more?
We are still waiting for the final details of the EU directive, but yes, that is the principle. Producers (manufacturers and importers) will contribute financially for every garment they introduce to the market. Additionally, brands selling lower-quality clothing will likely have to pay higher fees.
“Regarding textile producers: those who pollute more, will pay more.”
– Who is currently paying for this management?
Primarily municipalities, and therefore, citizens, especially for textiles that end up in general waste. Additionally, companies—often social enterprises—that handle these textiles also bear costs. While these organizations create jobs through textile waste management, they should not be financially responsible for the entire process, as it is often not economically viable. As the amount of separately collected textiles increases, so will the financial strain, making it even more crucial that producers contribute.
– A few weeks ago, European textile sorting and recycling industry associations stated that the cost of sorting second-hand clothing is now higher than the revenue from selling it. They warned that this could collapse the collection and recycling system.
Exactly. This happens because overproduction and overconsumption of textiles are generating far more waste than can be efficiently managed. Moreover, clothing is increasingly difficult to recycle due to its mixed fiber composition and lower quality.
To address this, the Catalan Waste Agency (ARC) has published a procurement guide for local governments to help them contract textile waste collection services. Just like with other types of waste, textile waste collection and management must be formally contracted, and fair compensation must be provided for these services.
“Textile waste collection and management must be formally contracted, just like other waste types, and fair compensation must be provided for these services.”
– What happens to textiles after they are deposited in collection containers?
Waste management companies transport them to sorting facilities, where the process follows the waste hierarchy principles. After prevention, the next priority is preparing for reuse.
This means that clothing is sorted to be resold, either in company-owned stores or through third parties. Any items that cannot be resold due to their condition are recycled for other purposes, such as cleaning rags, cushion stuffing, or materials for other industries. The goal is always to minimize destruction.
– And what’s going on with the controversy about the clothes that is sent to other countries?
Most waste management companies cannot handle all the clothes they collect, so part of it is sold to other companies. Sometimes, these companies are located in other countries. Ideally, all the management would be done locally, but if that’s not the case, it is essential that the clothes exported to other countries are previously sorted and adapted to their needs and reality so that they can be reused or recycled there, and in no case end up in landfills.
“It is essential that the clothes exported to other countries are previously sorted and adapted to their needs and reality.”
– So, should we deposit all textile waste in the clothing container, even those that are torn or dirty?
Yes, because waste managers are the ones who have to sort them to decide what use or purpose they can and should have. What is clear is that if the textile is not collected separately, it will surely go to waste.
– But we often hear that textile recycling is complicated.
True, and increasingly so. Garments are made with low-quality fabrics and usually mixing very different fibers, which makes it difficult to recycle them for new use and, especially, to maintain or increase the value of the original product. That’s why, two years ago, the Pact for Circular Fashion was born. It is an initiative driven by the Government of Catalonia that aims to create synergies between the different players in the textile value chain to accelerate the circular economy in the sector and, of course, help them comply with new European regulations.
– Are there any advancements?
Many. Brands, for sustainability reasons, but also due to legal requirements and economic reasons, are starting to design differently, creating more durable, easily repairable pieces, and incorporating recycled raw materials. For example, through the Pact, the Retexcat project was launched, which brings together different actors in the value chain and aims to incorporate recycled material from discarded garments into new collections from brands, using local infrastructure for this recycling. But there have also been many other collaborations that are improving the circularity of the textile industry in Catalonia. The results are still modest, but the important thing is that we are making progress.
“Brands, for sustainability reasons, but also due to legal requirements and economic reasons, are starting to design differently.”
– It’s very interesting that textile companies are working this way. And also that they must assume the cost of managing the end of life of their products. Will this eventually affect the final price of clothing?
Probably, but it’s a positive change. If clothes cost more (in fact, what they really cost), it will force manufacturers to add value to their pieces. On their part, consumers will pay more attention to what they buy. We hope all of this will reduce clothing consumption and waste. Everyone will win, starting with the planet.
“If clothes cost more, it will force manufacturers to add value to their pieces.”
– Except for companies, which will see their profits decrease.
Not necessarily. What they will need to do is make an effort to think of new business models that allow them to generate revenue without introducing so many new pieces into the market. This is, in fact, the goal of the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textile Products.
– Such as?
Servitization, repair, or second-hand are avenues to explore. From the Waste Agency of Catalonia, we have opened a line of grants aimed at promoting the circular economy, especially for financing pilot tests, prototypes, etc. These funds also come from the fees municipalities and companies pay for the use of landfills and incinerators.
– And what will happen with ultra-fast fashion companies that are introducing products from outside Europe?
European regulations aim to ensure that all products sold in Europe meet the same requirements and assume the costs they are responsible for. It will be very important to invest resources in controlling borders so that these companies play by the same rules. If this is not done, the only thing that will happen is the collapse of the European industry. Regulations must be accompanied by very robust control systems.
“European regulations aim to ensure that all products sold in Europe meet the same requirements and assume the costs they are responsible for.”
– Citizen awareness will also be essential.
Totally. From the Waste Agency of Catalonia, we are making a lot of efforts in this regard. For the past three years, we’ve been promoting Reborn, a second-hand fashion show presented as part of the 080 Barcelona Fashion. We’ve also run campaigns with influencers who connect with younger audiences, and we have a mobile exhibition that promotes sustainable fashion in a very approachable way. Right now, we are working on a campaign aimed at the general public to raise awareness about the role textile waste plays in our society.
– What is the message that the Waste Agency of Catalonia wants to convey regarding citizens’ relationship with textiles?
The most important message is about the waste hierarchy, which starts with prevention. It’s about extending the useful life of clothes as much as possible to avoid generating waste. Whether through reuse, exchange, donation, and of course, buying consciously. And once it’s time to get rid of it, deposit it in the clothing container so that it can be reused or recycled.
This interview is part of a discussion space driven by Girbau LAB and So Good So Cute, aiming to generate reflection and shed light on essential aspects of circularity in the textile industry. See other published articles.
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