A key element when discussing circularity in the textile industry is understanding the environmental impact of a garment from the moment raw materials are obtained until it reaches the end of its useful life. Only then can we determine, for example, which phases and processes are most critical for implementing improvements that reduce impact or which best practices we are already carrying out and could enhance.
And if anyone knows about this, it is the team at BCome, a platform that enables companies in the textile sector to comprehensively assess their products in order to understand their environmental, social, and circular impact.
For this reason, in the series of interviews we are conducting alongside Girbau LAB, Girbau’s collaborative innovation space, we could not miss this conversation with Anna Cañadell and Alba Garcia, co-founders of BCome.
— Anna, Alba, what impacts does BCome measure?
BCome provides a three-dimensional perspective by measuring environmental impacts, evaluating product circularity, and, as a new feature, analyzing social risk.
In terms of environmental impact, we measure water consumption and water scarcity impact, global warming impact, eutrophication levels (effects on aquatic ecosystems), and the depletion of fossil resources.
Regarding circularity, we take into account data on waste generated during the garment’s production and its impact during the use and end-of-life phases.
Right now, we are developing SLCA, a tool that will allow brands to assess the social risk of their products throughout their life cycle. Some of the indicators in this new methodology include the analysis of safe and healthy living conditions, forced labor, and fair wages.
— What benefits do textile companies gain from measuring their impacts?
Understanding the value chain is crucial for any company. Knowing how each supplier operates and what impacts are generated at each phase allows for the identification of risks and opportunities and, in the long term, increases competitiveness.
We are not a tool for immediate results, but we do offer a strategic approach to improving business efficiency in terms of impact and profitability in the medium to long term.
Additionally, Europe is implementing very strict legislation that will require companies to have this data and report it. If you are already prioritizing sustainability with your suppliers, it will be much easier for you to anticipate the requirements of new regulations.
“Knowing how each supplier operates and what impacts are generated at each stage helps identify risks and opportunities and, in the long term, increases competitiveness.”
— Are you referring to the Digital Product Passport?
Yes. Among the new legislative measures, the Product Passport is one of the regulations that will put the most pressure on fashion brands to step up their sustainability efforts.
— What will this passport be like?
Expectations are high since it seems it will reflect all the characteristics of a garment. However, according to the latest information from the EU, it appears that, at least initially, it will be quite general.
At first, it will be limited to being a system for recording the traceability of a garment, from the raw material to the delivery of the final product. Literally, a passport. But for us, this will already be a great success because, at present, many brands do not even know who their suppliers are or where they are located.
“The Digital Product Passport, at least initially, appears to be quite general.”
— Do brands not know where their garments are manufactured?
When it comes to manufacturing, yes. But they often lose traceability of the earlier stages. The Digital Product Passport will help shed a lot of light on this issue.
Later on, we are sure it will be refined and will likely provide all the information it currently promises and that the fashion industry needs to disclose.
— What impacts currently concern textile companies the most?
This is a tricky question because it’s like asking: “Which is more sustainable, a garment with lower water consumption or one with fewer CO₂ emissions?”
It all depends on the garment’s function and how you will use it. The important thing is to have all the data throughout its life cycle, take a global view, and then interpret it correctly to make the right decisions.
“The important thing is to have all the data throughout its life cycle […] and then interpret it correctly to make the right decisions.”
— And which impacts are easiest to minimize?
Water scarcity and global warming impact.
These two mainly depend on suppliers, who can be supported to work with closed-loop systems. They also depend on raw materials, which can be adjusted according to the garment’s intended function.
That said, each brand is unique. That is why it is beneficial to have a comprehensive view of a collection’s impacts, analyze them, and then decide where to start minimizing based on the brand’s priorities and possibilities.
— How do you measure impacts during the use phase?
We start by considering the brand’s best practices in eco-design and the type of garment in question. Based on this, we can provide information on how the consumer can interact with the garment to extend its lifespan and facilitate circularity when it reaches the end of its life.
All the information related to this phase fits perfectly with the requirements set by the Digital Product Passport.
— How?
The brand can use this space to educate and raise awareness among consumers, showing them with full transparency the impact of washing the garment more or less frequently, using one temperature setting over another, using more or less detergent, drying it in different ways, etc.
“The brand can use this space [the Digital Product Passport] to educate and raise awareness among consumers.”
— Indeed, the European directive even mentions informing consumers on how to repair garments.
Correct. This tool also encourages brands to take partial responsibility for repairing their products, helping to extend their lifecycle.
Moreover, it is a great opportunity to educate consumers on how to dispose of garments in the least impactful way while maximizing their recovery as much as possible.
— Do you believe all this information will truly help increase circularity in the textile industry?
Just as the nutritional information on a product does not automatically make the food industry more sustainable, in the textile sector, we cannot expect that simply sharing information will transform the industry.
But what we are certain of is that, just as it happened in the food sector, this transparency will give consumers more freedom to make informed decisions.
Right now, we buy clothes without really knowing what our purchase entails and wear them without understanding our impact. With the Digital Product Passport and new European regulations, many consumers will discover a world of knowledge and information that was previously unknown to them.
“We buy clothes without knowing what our purchase entails and wear them without understanding our impact.”
— For example?
People will likely become aware of the economic and environmental impact of having so many unused clothes in their wardrobes, which could lead to an increase in clothing rental.
This practice is already common in the mobility industry, and as people become more conscious of fashion’s impacts, it is likely to extend to this sector as well.
— When will we start seeing digital passports?
In reality, brands can already anticipate this legislation by incorporating this information using the data provided by BCome.
As for the official implementation of the Digital Product Passport, we do not yet dare to give an exact date. The European Union has not made it public either.
Initially, it was expected in 2024, but it now seems it will be delayed until 2025 or even 2026.
What is clear is that brands that anticipate its implementation will lead the narrative on transparency.
— In the meantime, what advice do you give consumers for making better purchasing decisions?
The most important thing is to consider how we will use the garment. Perhaps, instead of buying it, it is better to rent or borrow it.
We also recommend ensuring that the garment is of high quality and can be a long-term addition to our wardrobe.
We are big advocates of building a wardrobe with pieces that will stay with us for many years. That’s why it’s ideal to buy consciously made items, crafted from quality materials that make us feel comfortable and reflect our personal style.
— And what’s the best thing brands can do today to produce more sustainably?
The design phase is key, but so are material selection, distribution systems, packaging, and more.
Ultimately, the entire value chain must be considered.
But most importantly, brands need to have a deep understanding of their supply chains. Only by doing so can they access real data, make informed decisions, minimize their footprint, and identify risks.
This interview is part of a discussion space promoted by Girbau LAB and So Good So Cute, aiming to spark reflection and shed light on key aspects of circularity in the textile industry. See other published articles.
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