Why do we need more and more clothes? Is sustainability just a trend, or is there real awareness? How will businesses that promote circularity evolve? We discussed all this with Pilar Pasamontes, a 20th-century fashion historian and Scientific Director of Fashion at the European Institute of Design (IED). Her strategic vision and deep knowledge of fashion history had to be part of the interview series we are conducting in collaboration with Girbau LAB to reflect on and shed light on essential aspects of circularity in the textile industry and the fashion sector.
– Every year, around 100 billion garments are produced worldwide. And each European citizen consumes about 25 kilograms of textiles per year and discards 22. Pilar, how did we reach this point where clothing has lost so much value?
Fashion is a reflection of each historical moment, and we are now living in strange and turbulent times. On the one hand, there is an excess of everything: lips, breasts, tattoos… and clothes. At the same time, there is a great homogenization and a loss of value in things in general and clothing in particular. Lastly, the message of recycling has been deeply ingrained, and it seems that by simply placing everything (including clothes) in the right bin, the problem is solved.
– So, is sustainability just a ‘micro-trend’ within this excess?
It emerged as a response to a real issue, but it is true that sustainability has become fashionable, and like any fashion, it will pass. However, it will leave a mark, and in this case, an important one. There are habits linked to sustainability that will not be lost.
“It seems that by simply placing everything (including clothes) in the right bin, the problem is solved.”
– But fashion used to be inherently sustainable.
Fashion used to be sustainable because everything was much more expensive. But also, everything moved at a much slower pace, there was no viralization, and there was no need to change clothes so often. Marie Antoinette, despite being Marie Antoinette, could not afford 300 dresses, but she probably wouldn’t have wanted them anyway because it wouldn’t have made sense to her.
– Our mothers and grandmothers also practiced sustainable fashion.
More than anyone. By sewing and mending clothes over and over again. And transforming them when necessary.
– The upcycling that everyone is talking about now.
Exactly. In fact, both on the runway and at university, this technique is nothing new. At the IED, as is surely the case in many other fashion design schools, major brands donate leftover fabrics for students to develop their projects. Upcycling has been encouraged here for many years. We can also find iconic cases on the runway from years ago, like the early work of Martin Margiela and his scarves transformed into wonderful garments.
– Repairing clothes has also become a trend.
Yes. In the past, even in wealthy households, there were seamstresses dedicated to checking clothes for any imperfections. In textile factories, there were also darners who corrected flaws in fabrics when a thread slipped from the machine. With the disappearance of this profession, many textile factories had to close because they went bankrupt due to fabric losses. A real shame. I was also fascinated by embroiderers, who not only personalized garments but also helped hide defects. Fortunately, at the opposite end of excessive fashion, these crafts are being revived under the banner of sustainable, circular, social, and inclusive fashion, with countless other labels.
– What do you think about new business models linked to these trends, such as second-hand clothing or clothing rental?
That they are not so new. Who hasn’t inherited clothes from someone or borrowed something for a wedding? That said, as business models, they still have a long way to go.
Clothing rental, for example, needs to overcome many taboos to gain popularity, as many people are still embarrassed to admit that their clothes or accessories are rented. On the other hand, it is more common to confess that someone lent you something—especially if that “someone” is an important person, as it highlights the friendship and trust between you.
– And what about second-hand clothing?
I used to be very reluctant about it because I couldn’t stand the smell of vintage stores. I remember traveling to London and seeing my ex-husband go crazy in vintage shops while I waited outside because I couldn’t breathe inside. Now, hygiene has improved a lot. Online sales have also helped. In fact, when it comes to handbags, for example, many people prefer to buy them second-hand, even if they sometimes cost more than new ones, because they have a certain character and don’t make them look like nouveau riche. There’s a whole market to explore here.
“Make sure your clothes show who you truly are.”
– Speaking of hygiene. Is it true that you don’t have a washing machine at home?
No. Years ago, my washing machine broke down, and I started going to the local laundromat. I discovered that, besides being cheaper and more sustainable, the clothes came out cleaner, less wrinkled, and lasted longer. Later, I moved to a new apartment and didn’t even consider getting a washing machine.
I believe that, in today’s society, having a washing machine at home is a step backward. It takes up too much space and consumes too many resources.
Additionally, in shared apartments, it is a guaranteed source of arguments over usage and availability. In many Nordic countries and in the United States, laundromats are communal, and I think we are heading in that direction.
– Do we place too much importance on washing our clothes?
For hygiene and social reasons, we must wear clean clothes, but most of us don’t work in factories or on farms, so many times, simply airing out a garment will be enough. Additionally, this will help our clothes last longer and look better, since—except for linen—very few fabrics improve with washing. We need to take care of our clothes as they deserve, and not just the ones that cost us a lot of money. The devaluation of clothing has also led to a loss of care for it.
“We will have to live with these excesses and their consequences.”
– Can you give me some advice on dressing sustainably and with style?
Look at yourself in the mirror—really look. Not judging yourself, but observing yourself. And do it from a distance to gain perspective. From there, dress how you feel, not how social media or influencers tell you to. This will allow you to stand out. How a person dresses tells us a lot about who they are. Make sure your clothes show who you truly are.
– Finally, what do you think will happen with the excess clothing we talked about at the beginning?
The same thing that happens with the excess of lips, breasts, and tattoos. The trend will eventually change, and some lips, breasts, tattoos, and garments will be transformed or removed, but in other cases, they won’t—and we will have to live with these excesses and their consequences.
This interview is part of a discussion space driven by Girbau LAB and So Good So Cute, aiming to generate reflection and shed light on essential aspects of circularity in the textile industry. See other published articles.
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