“The goal of 080 Reborn is to dignify second-hand clothing and its reuse.”

Fashion and advertising styling, creative consulting, fashion advising, and promotion—this and much more is Fermin & Gilles Stylist, the duo formed by Gilles Saint Martin and Fermín Serret since 1995. They have delighted us with stunning editorials in major fashion magazines, iconic advertising campaigns, and multiple artistic projects.

But at So Good So Cute, we approached Fermín and Gilles to talk about one of their latest projects, which, in their own words, “has probably been the most stimulating”: the creation of Reborn, the second-hand clothing fashion show commissioned by 080 Barcelona Fashion. Its goal is to raise awareness and promote responsible consumption in fashion while dignifying clothing reuse. In just a few days, we will witness the results of the second edition of this fashion show show, dedicated this time to recycling and upcycling.

 

 

— Fermín, Gilles, how did you experience the challenge of bringing second-hand fashion to the 080 fashion show?

In our twenty-five-year career, we have worked on very diverse and enriching projects. But this one has felt like a gift, a truly beautiful professional moment. It’s not a conventional assignment. Second-hand fashion and reuse are already part of our daily professional work, even if it often goes unnoticed. However, being able to build a fashion show centered around these values has been wonderful. At the same time, it has been a real challenge.

The goal of Reborn is to dignify second-hand clothing and its reuse, so the selection of garments and styling had to be beyond excellent. Additionally, we wanted to take the project further than the obvious. In the first edition, which was focused on second-hand clothing, we didn’t want to limit ourselves to designer pieces found in vintage stores. We wanted to create looks with more conventional garments.

— Is Reborn an isolated case, or is second-hand clothing also used in fashion editorials and campaigns?

Our career has allowed us to work on very different projects, and, in fact, in most of them, we use second-hand clothing, mainly to optimize resources. And, of course, to care for the planet. We have even done editorials where all the garments were second-hand.

 

— But it seems that this normalization of second-hand clothing among professionals has not yet reached most households.

Absolutely not. And in Spain, in particular, the introduction of second-hand fashion among end consumers is still very underdeveloped.

“In Spain, the introduction of second-hand fashion among end consumers is still very underdeveloped.”

— Why is that?

It is primarily a cultural issue. For a long time, Spain was isolated and faced significant scarcity. This led to second-hand clothing being perceived as something related to charity, and that idea still lingers today. People want everything new. Cheap, but new.

— What can the fashion industry do to change this perception?

First of all, education and awareness are essential. We know that schools are already working on this issue to some extent, but on a broader societal level, there is still a long way to go.

Initiatives like Reborn or this interview series are very important, but we need more. We have encountered too many conversations where people say they feel disgusted by the idea of wearing second-hand clothes. This perception must change.

 

“Educating and raising awareness about second-hand fashion and reuse is essential.”

 

— What else can be done?

To change this perception, the way second-hand clothing is presented to consumers is crucial.

In this regard, companies that sell second-hand clothing need to make an extra effort to dignify it—by cleaning, ironing, and displaying it attractively.

“Second-hand stores should be attractive spaces, they should smell good, have good lighting, and be inspiring.”

Additionally, it is important to reinforce the message of what reusing clothing means for our planet.

— Is it different in Europe?

Yes. You see very well-maintained stores where everything is spotless. You also notice it in the streets, where outfits naturally combine new pieces with vintage ones. Here, however, there is a dominant culture of exclusively consuming new clothing because otherwise, people might think you are poor.

 

“Companies that sell second-hand clothing need to make an extra effort to dignify it.”

 

— In Spain, we don’t want it to be noticeable that we wear second-hand clothes.

Obviously, it depends on the person. But in general, if the clothing is more conventional, people tend not to want to make it obvious. The situation changes when it comes to original or unique pieces—in those cases, people enjoy saying they found them in a second-hand store or inherited them. It’s almost like winning a prize—they have found something special and unique, and they want to show it off.

— Since you’ve recently visited many second-hand clothing stores, who shops there?

We’ve identified two very different profiles. On one hand, people looking for well-preserved and affordable clothing, driven primarily by price. On the other, a younger audience, sometimes very young, looking for unique pieces.

For example, we were amazed to see a boy no older than twelve asking his mother to buy him a vintage football jersey, while the mother couldn’t understand why he didn’t prefer a new one. We also saw many young people, especially foreigners, searching for special and one-of-a-kind pieces. Now, the challenge is getting the general public to step into these stores.

— Despite this, we’re seeing major fashion brands launching second-hand initiatives. That means there’s a market, right?

Yes, there is. Although European regulations are also pushing brands to diversify their business models to focus more on circularity. And second-hand fashion is an excellent strategy.

Either way, these initiatives are very useful for achieving the education and awareness we talked about, as well as for dignifying second-hand clothing stores.

 

“Legislation is forcing [fashion brands] to diversify their business models to deepen the circularity of their garments. And second-hand fashion is a great strategy.”

 

— Does second-hand clothing have a fair price?

Clothing has value, and that should be reflected in the price. However, when visiting second-hand stores, we’ve noticed that when it comes to branded, unique, or collector’s pieces, the prices are often very high, which doesn’t help democratize access to this type of clothing.

As a result, we end up in a situation where only certain people can afford the most interesting pieces.

— What other circular fashion trends are emerging?

We are witnessing a major rise in upcycling, which involves repurposing unused garments and modifying them to enhance the original piece. The second edition of Reborn is a clear example of this.

Upcycling is also an excellent way to extend the life of second-hand clothing, wear it with dignity, and even increase its value. Some designers are incorporating upcycled pieces into the fashion industry, but it is also a technique anyone can practice individually, by modifying their existing wardrobe and giving pieces a special and unique touch.

 

“We are seeing a significant rise in upcycling.”

 

— Will durability become a trend?

Clearly, making clothing more durable is a key element in increasing its usage. And legislation is also putting a lot of pressure on this aspect.
In this sense, European luxury brands have extensive experience, as they manufacture with very high-quality standards and locally—most of their production is made in Europe. Additionally, they use highly selective raw materials.

However, it is interesting that these brands rarely highlight these aspects in their communication strategies. It would be great if they gave them more prominence, as it would help raise awareness.

— What about the fashion rental phenomenon?

Clothing rental has been around for many years, mainly for special events and ceremonies. And in advertising, it has always been common practice.

Now, we are seeing new platforms for renting everyday clothing, but we’re not sure if this trend will truly take off. In our circles, we haven’t seen widespread adoption of this trend yet, but it is certainly an interesting concept.

— On your social media, you mention that “reusing textiles is a world full of surprises yet to be explored.” Can you predict any future developments?

It’s difficult to make predictions because things change so quickly, but we like to imagine a future where fashion can still be enjoyed without compromising the planet.

In this sense, we believe 3D printing could play a key role. Imagine being able to print clothing at home using compostable filaments, for which you’ve purchased a license. When you no longer need it, you could take it to a recycling center, where it would be transformed back into raw material for future prints.

 

“We like to imagine a future where fashion can still be enjoyed without compromising the planet.”

 

 

— Finally, do you have any advice on how to extend the life of our wardrobe while improving our style?

The most important thing is to appreciate and maximize the use of the wardrobe you already have. If you get bored of an item or find that you never wear it because it was a mistaken purchase, consider upcycling to give it a new life.

You could, for example, reconstruct it with another second-hand piece or take it to a customization space. There are more and more options available for this.

Thank you so much, Fermín and Gilles, for your time and insights!

This interview is part of a discussion series led by Girbau LAB and So Good So Cute, aimed at fostering reflection and shedding light on key aspects of circularity in the textile industry. See other published articles.