{"id":3101,"date":"2024-04-27T12:53:31","date_gmt":"2024-04-27T12:53:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/girbaulab.com\/david-allo-texfor\/"},"modified":"2025-03-18T10:32:53","modified_gmt":"2025-03-18T10:32:53","slug":"david-allo-texfor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/girbaulab.com\/ca\/david-allo-texfor\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cLa nostra ind\u00fastria \u00e9s l\u00edder en sostenibilitat, per\u00f2 com a ciutadans tenim molt poca cultura t\u00e8xtil\u201d."},"content":{"rendered":"

Texfor<\/a> \u00e9s la Confederaci\u00f3 de la Ind\u00fastria T\u00e8xtil, l\u2019entitat espanyola amb m\u00e9s representativitat del sector t\u00e8xtil. Actualment, agrupa m\u00e9s de 4.000 empreses, la gran majoria pimes, que donen feina a m\u00e9s de 45.000 treballadors i generen una riquesa anual superior als 5.000 M\u20ac. Una organitzaci\u00f3 clau per accelerar la circularitat de la ind\u00fastria t\u00e8xtil. Sobre aix\u00f2 hem parlat amb el seu responsable de sostenibilitat, David Allo.<\/p>\n

\u2013 David, la ind\u00fastria t\u00e8xtil espanyola est\u00e0 preparada per a la circularitat?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Totalment. De fet, som l\u00edders internacionals en sostenibilitat. Aix\u00f2 \u00e9s perqu\u00e8 la ind\u00fastria t\u00e8xtil espanyola s\u2019ha caracteritzat per una gran efici\u00e8ncia de recursos (aigua, minves, qu\u00edmics, energia, residus, etc.), cosa que ens ha convertit, gaireb\u00e9 sense voler-ho, en abanderats del tema. A m\u00e9s, la legislaci\u00f3 europea \u00e9s la m\u00e9s exigent en aquestes q\u00fcestions, per la qual cosa no nom\u00e9s la complim, sin\u00f3 que comptem amb certificats que ens avalen.<\/p>\n

El gran problema de tota aquesta transici\u00f3 legislativa \u00e9s la coher\u00e8ncia de la legislaci\u00f3. I, per descomptat, que el control de mercats permeti capitalitzar la inversi\u00f3 feta per complir-la.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cA Espanya som l\u00edders internacionals en sostenibilitat\u201d.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u2013 Anem per parts. Qu\u00e8 vols dir amb coher\u00e8ncia legislativa?<\/strong><\/p>\n

El Reglament Europeu de Disseny Ecol\u00f2gic marca una s\u00e8rie de requisits que hauran de complir els nous productes, tamb\u00e9 els t\u00e8xtils, com ara incorporar un percentatge de mat\u00e8ries reciclades o certs criteris d\u2019ecodisseny, com l\u2019\u00fas de peces monomaterial, etc. Per\u00f2 la sostenibilitat d\u2019un producte t\u00e8xtil \u00e9s molt m\u00e9s complexa i dep\u00e8n de la categoria del producte i de l\u2019\u00fas que se li donar\u00e0.<\/p>\n

\u2013 Un exemple que puguem entendre?<\/strong><\/p>\n

La roba t\u00e8cnica laboral o fins i tot l\u2019esportiva s\u00f3n exemples molt il\u00b7lustratius. Perqu\u00e8 sigui roba duradora i compleixi els requisits t\u00e8cnics per als quals ha estat dissenyada, sovint s\u2019ha de renunciar al monomaterial i a les mat\u00e8ries primeres reciclades. Dues pr\u00e0ctiques considerades poc circulars, per\u00f2 que, en realitat, incrementen la seva durabilitat i efici\u00e8ncia. Si dicotomies com aquestes no s\u2019expliquen b\u00e9, la mateixa legislaci\u00f3 pot convertir-se en una eina de greenwashing.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cLa mateixa legislaci\u00f3 pot convertir-se en una eina de greenwashing\u201d.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u2013 I com pot ser la legislaci\u00f3 m\u00e9s coherent?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Caldr\u00e0, i de fet ja s\u2019est\u00e0 fent, estudiar el sector t\u00e8xtil amb molt detall i tenir en compte tota la seva casu\u00edstica. S\u2019hauria d\u2019analitzar cada categoria de producte per separat i cada material. I marcar uns requisits diferents per a cadascun d\u2019ells.<\/p>\n

Per\u00f2 no es tracta nom\u00e9s de legislaci\u00f3, sin\u00f3 tamb\u00e9 d\u2019educaci\u00f3 ciutadana.<\/p>\n

Tornant a l\u2019exemple anterior: molta roba dissenyada per a la pr\u00e0ctica esportiva s\u2019est\u00e0 utilitzant en el dia a dia i se sotmet a molts m\u00e9s rentats dels que estava pensat. Aix\u00f2 genera un desgast inadequat d\u2019un material que ha implicat molts recursos naturals. I, en alguns casos, a m\u00e9s, suposa el despreniment de molts micropl\u00e0stics. La pe\u00e7a havia estat confeccionada per a la sostenibilitat, per\u00f2 el seu \u00fas no \u00e9s l\u2019adequat.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cNo es tracta nom\u00e9s de legislaci\u00f3, sin\u00f3 tamb\u00e9 d\u2019educaci\u00f3 ciutadana\u201d.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u2013 Tenim poca cultura t\u00e8xtil.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Molt poca. I \u00e9s una ll\u00e0stima, sobretot perqu\u00e8 moltes regions d\u2019Espanya estan molt lligades al t\u00e8xtil, per\u00f2 la cultura en aquest \u00e0mbit s\u2019ha perdut. Molt poca gent coneix els processos que s\u2019amaguen darrere d\u2019una simple samarreta, i aix\u00f2 dificulta molt tant la compra de roba com la seva posterior cura a casa. Prop dels industrials t\u00e8xtils hi ha m\u00e9s coneixement sobre com es fa un fil, com es teixeix i com es tenyeix. Amb aquest coneixement, \u00e9s m\u00e9s f\u00e0cil entendre la sostenibilitat del sector.<\/p>\n

\u2013 Com es pot ajudar el consumidor a fer-ho millor?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Educant des de l\u2019escola, per exemple. De fet, una de les tasques de Texfor \u00e9s la formaci\u00f3 i la divulgaci\u00f3, en escoles, amb cursos especialitzats i amb l\u2019atenci\u00f3 als mitjans de comunicaci\u00f3. Un projecte molt interessant va ser Erasmus + Ecotex, des del qual es van formar m\u00e9s de 5.550 persones.<\/p>\n

\u2013 I la mateixa ind\u00fastria, pot influir en el comportament de l\u2019usuari final?<\/strong><\/p>\n

En realitat ja ho fa, donant exemple, que a vegades no \u00e9s el m\u00e9s medi\u00e0tic per\u00f2 s\u00ed el m\u00e9s efectiu. L\u2019obsessi\u00f3 dels industrials espanyols \u00e9s oferir la m\u00e0xima qualitat i durabilitat amb la major efici\u00e8ncia energ\u00e8tica, d\u2019aigua, de qu\u00edmica, etc. Per principis, per reputaci\u00f3, per legislaci\u00f3 i per competitivitat econ\u00f2mica.<\/p>\n

Una altra cosa \u00e9s formar l\u2019usuari en l\u2019\u00fas de la pe\u00e7a. Aix\u00f2 ja \u00e9s m\u00e9s complicat, ja que la ind\u00fastria no est\u00e0 en contacte directe amb la ciutadania, i els escassos recursos que inverteixen en comunicaci\u00f3 es destinen a relacionar-se amb les marques, que s\u00f3n els seus clients directes. Suposo que hauran de ser les marques les que fomentin aquestes bones pr\u00e0ctiques a trav\u00e9s de les seves comunicacions amb el consumidor.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cHauran de ser les marques les que fomentin aquestes bones pr\u00e0ctiques a trav\u00e9s de les seves comunicacions amb el consumidor\u201d.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u2013 El Passaport Digital de Producte pot ser una bona eina?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Naturalment que ajudar\u00e0 molt, sobretot perqu\u00e8 els consumidors amb cert inter\u00e8s accedeixin f\u00e0cilment a informaci\u00f3 molt \u00fatil. El repte \u00e9s arribar a aquelles que no mostren tant inter\u00e8s.<\/p>\n

\u2013 Fran\u00e7a ha anunciat el llan\u00e7ament de l\u2019\u201cecoscore\u201d, una etiqueta que busca simplificar aquests missatges.<\/strong><\/p>\n

S\u00ed, \u00e9s un sem\u00e0for semblant al de la certificaci\u00f3 energ\u00e8tica que identifica visualment la petjada ambiental del producte t\u00e8xtil. \u00c9s molt interessant i tota ajuda ser\u00e0 benvinguda, per\u00f2 sempre sense oblidar que la sostenibilitat i la circularitat d\u2019una pe\u00e7a no es limiten a la petjada ambiental. L\u2019\u00fas que se\u2019n faci a casa i el final de vida que se li doni s\u00f3n claus.<\/p>\n

Als mercats del sud d\u2019Europa, el sem\u00e0for, encara, \u00e9s el preu, tot i que crec que hi ha una tend\u00e8ncia clara cap almenys \u00e9s m\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cLa sostenibilitat i la circularitat d\u2019una pe\u00e7a no es limiten a la petjada ambiental. L\u2019\u00fas que se\u2019n faci a casa i el final de vida que se li doni s\u00f3n claus\u201d.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u2013 Al principi de l’entrevista apuntaves que un altre dels grans reptes de la transici\u00f3 legislativa cap a la circularitat \u00e9s el control dels mercats i la competitivitat en aquests. Qu\u00e8 significa?<\/strong><\/p>\n

La legislaci\u00f3 europea s’aplica a tots els productes que es vulguin comercialitzar dins d’Europa. I aqu\u00ed el complicat ser\u00e0 controlar aquelles produccions que venen de fora. Actualment, el control de duanes \u00e9s complex de gestionar, com ho evidencia el projecte REACH 4 textiles (*).<\/p>\n

La por del sector industrial espanyol i europeu \u00e9s la diverg\u00e8ncia entre el que es legisla i el que es pot controlar, aix\u00ed com el dumping ambiental i social. S’estan fent grans inversions per adaptar-se a la normativa i incrementar encara m\u00e9s la circularitat, i la dificultat rau en el fet que el mercat valori aquesta excel\u00b7l\u00e8ncia.<\/p>\n

A Europa ens trobem en una situaci\u00f3 molt complexa de manca de competitivitat a causa de la falta de reconeixement de variables ambientals (descarbonitzaci\u00f3, efici\u00e8ncia en l’\u00fas de l’aigua i la gesti\u00f3 de qu\u00edmics, evitar productes qu\u00edmics perillosos, etc.). Tot aix\u00f2 s\u00f3n recursos, i ni tan sols les administracions p\u00fabliques que legislen apliquen la coher\u00e8ncia de les seves pr\u00f2pies normes en les compres p\u00fabliques.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cLa por del sector industrial espanyol i europeu \u00e9s la diverg\u00e8ncia entre el que es legisla i el que es pot controlar\u201d.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u2013 En aquest sentit, quines estrat\u00e8gies estan implementant els industrials espanyols per minimitzar la generaci\u00f3 de residus i promoure el reciclatge en tota la cadena de subministrament?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Com t\u2019he comentat, \u00e9s una cosa que es fa des de sempre, com ara les filatures que nom\u00e9s treballen amb fils regenerats, aprofitant no nom\u00e9s la mat\u00e8ria primera sin\u00f3 tamb\u00e9 el tint original. Tamb\u00e9 hi ha qui ja ha comen\u00e7at a treballar amb colorants biobasats que substitueixen la qu\u00edmica m\u00e9s convencional. I, \u00f2bviament, moltes f\u00e0briques estan avan\u00e7ant molt r\u00e0pidament cap a la descarbonitzaci\u00f3, mitjan\u00e7ant plaques fotovoltaiques i el reaprofitament pr\u00e0cticament total de l’aigua, aix\u00ed com una millor gesti\u00f3 dels residus s\u00f2lids a trav\u00e9s de la simbiosi industrial.<\/p>\n

Recentment, a Texfor hem impartit una formaci\u00f3 espec\u00edfica sobre reciclatge t\u00e8xtil, analitzant casos d\u2019\u00e8xit i les tecnologies m\u00e9s avan\u00e7ades que s’estan utilitzant actualment, aix\u00ed com les possibilitats d\u2019innovaci\u00f3 a curt i mitj\u00e0 termini. Tamb\u00e9 estem duent a terme activitats sobre descarbonitzaci\u00f3, qu\u00edmica, etc.<\/p>\n

\u2013 I la ind\u00fastria est\u00e0 apostant tamb\u00e9 per nous models de negoci basats en la circularitat?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Aix\u00f2 ho porten a l’ADN per competitivitat. Ara mateix, estan immersos en la digitalitzaci\u00f3 i en ser capdavanters en la ind\u00fastria 4.0, a m\u00e9s de col\u00b7laborar entre ells i establir aliances molt interessants amb startups creades amb aquest objectiu, com Recovo, que dona sortida a teixits descatalogats; Circoolar o Deleite Wear, que fomenten la servititzaci\u00f3 del t\u00e8xtil; o empreses que cerquen simbiosi industrial i noves aplicacions per als residus, com Insertega o fins i tot Moda-Re.<\/p>\n

(*) REACH 4 textiles \u00e9s un programa d’Euratex que promou una vigil\u00e0ncia del mercat de productes t\u00e8xtils justa i efectiva amb l’objectiu, entre altres coses, de mantenir fora del mercat \u00fanic europeu els productes que no compleixen les normes.<\/p>\n

Aquesta entrevista forma part d\u2019un espai de debat impulsat per Girbau LAB i So Good So Cute, que busca generar reflexi\u00f3 i aportar llum a aspectes essencials de la circularitat en la ind\u00fastria t\u00e8xtil. Veure altres articles publicats.<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Texfor \u00e9s la Confederaci\u00f3 de la Ind\u00fastria T\u00e8xtil, l\u2019entitat espanyola amb m\u00e9s representativitat del sector t\u00e8xtil. Actualment, agrupa m\u00e9s de 4.000 empreses, la gran majoria pimes, que donen feina a m\u00e9s de 45.000 treballadors i generen una riquesa anual superior als 5.000 M\u20ac. Una organitzaci\u00f3 clau per accelerar la circularitat de la ind\u00fastria t\u00e8xtil. Sobre […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3098,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"class_list":["post-3101","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-noticies"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u201cLa nostra ind\u00fastria \u00e9s l\u00edder en sostenibilitat, per\u00f2 com a ciutadans tenim molt poca cultura t\u00e8xtil\u201d. - Girbau LAB<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Entrevistem David Allo, responsable de sostenibilitat de Texfor, la Confederaci\u00f3 de la Ind\u00fastria T\u00e8xtil espanyola.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/girbaulab.com\/ca\/david-allo-texfor\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ca_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u201cLa nostra ind\u00fastria \u00e9s l\u00edder en sostenibilitat, per\u00f2 com a ciutadans tenim molt poca cultura t\u00e8xtil\u201d. - 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